New Zealand Trip 2014: Thursday

When we pulled our blackout shades open this morning, we couldn’t see much sunshine filtering through the heavy clouds above the airshaft outside our window—but we couldn’t see any raindrops, either. In other words, it looked like a perfect day to visit the zoo.

Aftermath of breakfast at Momo Brasserie

But first we wanted to get a more substantial breakfast than we’d had yesterday. Momo Brasserie had gotten good reviews, and it didn’t take long for us to understand why. The first thing we noticed after we sat down was that at least half the people who came through the door were welcomed by name. Most didn’t even have to order because the staff already knew what they wanted. Several customers were presented with the current issue of whichever newspaper they preferred in addition to their coffee or chai. This place obviously understands customer service—but it also understands how to make exceptional food. Nancy’s French toast and Michael’s omelette had been happily consumed before we remembered to take a picture of either one. If we lived in Sydney, we’d probably become part of Momo’s loyal clientele.

Soon we were back at Circular Quay boarding a ferry bound for Taronga Zoo, across the harbor in Mosman. There weren’t many other passengers this morning, but we knew we must be on the right boat because some of them were wearing uniforms and badges identifying them as zoo staff members. We wanted to arrive as soon as the zoo opened at 9:30 a.m. because we had booked places on the 9:45 VIP Aussie Gold Tour, which focuses on the animals that are unique to Australia.

Taronga VIP Tour guides Graham and Gillian

It turns out that we were the only visitors on the VIP tour, which was led by Graham, a veteran volunteer guide of twenty-five years, and Gillian, a thirty- year veteran who was "recertifying" after a one-year hiatus. We couldn’t have asked for a more knowledgeable, congenial pair. During our two hours together, Graham and Gillian walked us all over the zoo, taking us not only to meet many of the animals, but also to meet some of the keepers at work behind the animal enclosures.

Blue-Tongued Lizard

Shingleback Lizard

Leaf Insect

Our first stop was in a classroom where school groups can handle some of the zoo’s smaller creatures, such as the shingleback and blue-tongued lizards (commonly found in Australian gardens), and the leaf insects (which eat all the way along the edge of a leaf, and then start back at the beginning, as if they were moving to the next line on an old-fashioned typewriter).

Fierce Snake

Earlier in our trip, we had learned that New Zealand has no snakes, so Nancy was curious to know whether Australia was similarly reptile-challenged. “No indeed,” said Graham. “Australia has many species of snakes. If you’re interested, we can visit the reptile house and see some of them.”

So we went to the reptile house, where Graham showed us a fierce snake—which is its name, not a description of its disposition. The fierce snake isn’t as handsome as some other species, but it’s notable because it has the most powerful venom of any snake in the world. The amount injected in one bite is toxic enough to kill 40,000 rats instantly, or finish off an adult human in 45 minutes. Fortunately, the snake is rare, and more inclined to glide away and hide rather than attack anything large.

Tasmanian Devil (with simulated roadkill--its favorite food)

One of the perks of the VIP tour was that Graham and Gillian knew exactly when the animals were about to be fed and therefore would be up, active, and easily seen; that was the case with the platypus and the unexpectedly adorable Tasmanian devil.

Cuddly--but fierce if disturbed--koala

Another perk was that we were allowed to enter some of the animals’ enclosures; thus we had kangaroos and wallabies bounding across the path right in front of us, and we came so close to the sleeping koalas that we could’ve kissed their fuzzy faces.

We found "Paul's Kitchen," the zoo’s food-preparation area, especially intriguing. Of course we knew that different animals require different diets, but we never realized how carefully each menu is planned, prepared, and served. Graham explained that staff members go out to the market each morning to purchase a variety of fruits and vegetables for the animals, then they come back and portion everything into individual feeding containers as if they were line chefs plating dishes at a gourmet restaurant.

Taronga Zoo is prohibted by law from feeding live animals to other animals, so most carnivores that usually feed on small rodents, birds, or fish get warmed-up frozen dinners. A few species, however, will not eat unless they can "catch" their prey, so zookeepers have to attach a little frozen animal to a stick or wire and wiggle it around in the predator's cage until it attacks.

Animal feeding schedule

Frozen mice, birds and shrimp

Keeper playing with a sugar glider, a type of flying squirrel

"Plated" animal meals

Taronga Amphitheatre

We said goodbye to Graham and Gillian outside an amphitheatre overlooking Sydney Harbor, where the Free-Flight Bird Show was about to start.

Bird trainer with cockatoo

The presentation didn’t just include hunting falcons and talking parrots, but also trained doves, cockatoos, owls, buzzards, chickens, a giant condor that swooped over the audience on cue, and a black kite named Stella that caught food thrown into the air. We had no idea so many types of birdbrains were capable of learning tricks.

Some members of the audience at the bird show were just as colorful as the birds. Many LGBT people have gathered in Sydney this week to celebrate Mardi Gras in their own special way. The zoo played host today to a group of flamboyant men dressed as nuns, calling themselves "Sisters of the Perpetual Indulgence." We chose not to include them in our photos, so you'll have to use your imagination.

A spider's web in the rain

A light rain started to fall while we were in the cafeteria consuming salads from clear plastic clamshell containers. After that unremarkable lunch, we walked through an aviary full of exotic birds and then past the Lemur Forest Adventure (sort of like a McDonald’s PlayPlace where kids can cavort alongside the animals). When we were ready to leave, the Sky Safari gondola gave us a final aerial view of the zoo and then deposited us at the wharf, where we caught a ferry back to Sydney.

Entrees at Fish at the Rocks

Obtaining dinner tonight was a lot more straightforward than it had been last night, since we had already secured a reservation at Fish at the Rocks. Unfortunately, we spent a little too long back at the hotel writing blogposts this afternoon and had to power-walk from the bus stop to the restaurant (several blocks, uphill) to get there as soon as it opened at 6:00. We needed to be served promptly so we could get to the Opera House before curtain time at 7:30.

Main Plates

We were thus a little winded when we sat down, but happy we had made it in time to take advantage of the early-bird special fixed-price menu. For his entrée, Michael chose the Massaman fishcakes with cucumber, coriander and mint salad. Although Nancy was somewhat wary of ordering calamari after learning (on This American Life) that most people can’t tell the difference between true calamari and sliced pig intestines, she decided to try Fish on the Rocks’s tapioca-crusted version anyway—and pronounced it the best calamari she had ever eaten. (The sweet green chili dipping sauce was yummy, too.) The grilled salmon and swordfish we had for our mains were equally delicious.

Desserts

With twenty minutes to go before we had to leave for the opera, the helpful and efficient waiter assured us that there was plenty of time for dessert. So Michael ordered profiteroles filled with chocolate ice cream and topped with chocolate brandy sauce, and Nancy chose the flourless chocolate mud cake with berry compote and whipped cream. It would have been nice to linger at the table a little longer, but with full stomachs, we didn’t want to have to run all the way to the opera house.

OUR NIGHT AT THE OPERA

Having viewed the empty expanse of the Joan Sutherland Theatre from the stage a few days ago, it was interesting to now view the capacity crowd from Row V. Although our seats were only three rows from the back of the orchestra section, we had no problem seeing and hearing everything on stage.

Tonight’s production of Carmen was pretty good. The staging was effective, and the warm-hued sets and costumes also were visually pleasing. Milijana Nikolic, the Serbian mezzo-soprano who played Carmen, sounded wonderful and seemed to be having fun in the role, but we wondered what could possibly have attracted her to the passionless fellow who played Don Jose. (We would’ve dumped him for Escamillo even sooner than she did.) Both the children’s and the adult choruses were excellent, but the real highlight of the show was Bizet’s music. You just can’t help falling in love with it over and over again.

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